Day 19 - Bucharest to England!

Not a lot to say today, other than after checking out of my hotel I grabbed something to eat before jumping on the #780 bus on Bulevardul Dinicu Golescu, (to the right of the train station) and headed off to the airport to fly home to England.

 Thanks Romania for a great time!

 #780 Timetable

Day 18 - Alba lulia to Bucharest (by train)

Another wonderful breakfast was had at my pension. When it was time to leave I thanked the owner and his son for their kind hospitality before heading off to the train station. I left a little earlier than was needed as I wanted to take a few photographs of the cemetery near the station as the sun was rising. Unfortunately it was a cloudy morning!

Cemetery in Alba lulia 

Cemetery in Alba lulia

My train to Bucharest was on time, but it was a very slow journey with the train arriving late at 5:30 pm. As I was quite tired I decided to book in at the nearby Das President Hotel again (90 lei). My room this time was much nicer and didn't smell of stale cigarette smoke!

I later went out for something to eat and settled for the nearby 'Subway' again, and made use of their free Wi-Fi. I later headed back to my hotel to sort myself out for the journey back to England in the morning.

Day 17 - Alba lulia

I had a great breakfast which included feta cheese and cold cuts of meat, all washed down with lashings of strong coffee! After I'd filled my stomach I headed off to the train station to book my ticket for Bucharest in the morning. I was greeted yet again by a nice friendly girl at the ticket counter and purchased a 2nd class ticket costing 124.50 lei. The train leaves at 8:30 am and is due to arrive at 4:10 pm.

Breakfast

I then made my way to the centre of town and took a wander around the Citadel, before having a break and sampling the local mulled wine and some chocolate! After spending a little more time wandering around the town I decided to head along Str Calea Motilor, in the direction of the mountains. (I did spot a nice looking hotel called 'Villa la Dutu' along the way.) I ended up hiking all the way to the village of Sard and climbed the hill by the train crossing, (with the large house at the top) and soaked up the views of the mountains. If I'd had a bit more time I would have liked to have got a little closer to the mountains, but as I only had a couple of daylight hours left I decided to hike back before jumping on a bus back into the centre of town.

The Orthodox Cathedral (1922)

The Orthodox Cathedral (1922)

Mulled wine

The Apuseni Mountains

After jumping off the bus back in town, I took another walk around the Citadel, this time along the top and soaked up the views as the sun was setting. Before heading back to my pension I had a coffee and a slice of cake whilst waiting for the Christmas lights to come on as I really wanted to take a few photographs!

Alba lulia

Alba lulia

Alba lulia

Alba lulia

Alba lulia

St Michaels's Cathedral (11th century)

Alba lulia

Alba lulia

Alba lulia

Back at my pension I ordered a large pot of tea while waiting for me evening meal to be served, which consisted of some lovely steak!

Great food

Day 16 - Sighetu Marmației to Cluj-Napoca (by train) followed by another train to Alba lulia (via Teiuș)

It was a great relief to finally board my train at 1:22 am to Cluj- Napoca. However, unfortunately for the entire journey it was freezing cold and I spent most of the time laid across three seats inside my sleeping bag trying to keep warm!

On arrival at Cluj- Napoca (7:45 am), I quickly made my way to the ticket office to see about booking my next train to Alba lulia. I was in luck as there was a train leaving for Teius at 9:40 am (32.80 lei), and another train leaving from Teius to Alba lulia at 1 pm (3.60 lei). I purchased both tickets and was due to arrive in Alba lulia at 1:35 pm.

As I had a couple of hours to kill I visited the nearby train station café for a coffee and a very stale slice of cake, which was made more annoying as I was told to leave the café to eat elsewhere as the cleaners needed to enter and clean the place! I decided to cross the road and visit the patisserie near the Pax hotel, (where I stayed earlier in my travels) and sadly ended up with another stale cake!

The train left for Teius on time, the journey was uneventful and I arrived at 11:30 am. The train station did not really have a great deal to offer, but I did manage to grab something to eat at one of the kiosks. The station also had its own gang of dogs roaming the place, luckily all very friendly!

On my way to Teiuș - View from train window

On my way to Teiuș - View from train window

Teiuș Train Station

 Teiuș Train Station

My train to Alba lulia left on time at 1 pm, but it was an incredibly slow journey and I finally arrived at 1:45 pm. As I walked out of the train station I jumped on the #13 bus and got off near Str Mihai Viteazul and headed off in the direction of St Michael's Cathedral. I made my way to 'Pensiunea Flamingo', (as my guidebook had given it a good write up). When I arrived and entered the bar I asked the young girl if I could book a room for a couple of nights. I was told I had to call the lady owner, to which I explained that I did not have a mobile phone and so the young girl rather reluctantly called her for me! After a brief conversation on the telephone I was informed the lady owner was a little unwell and asked if I could return in a few hours time! A little disgruntled and very tired I just left!

I decided to head back towards the train station and seek out the place called 'Hanul cu Bere', which according to my guidebook was 2 km from the station, but I am sure it was much further. I eventually spotted 'Hanul cu Bere', (on left side of road) and as I entered I was hit by a massive cloud of smoke, and was soon told they were fully booked! (I was actually quite relieved!) I then crossed the road and visited 'Hanul dintre Salcii', where I was greeted by a young guy sat in a very large dining room all on his own. He did seem quite surprised that I was looking for a room for the night, and eventually informed me a room would be 70 lei. I enquired about the hotel restaurant; and I was told they did not serve any food. Somewhat surprised, I pointed to all the tables and chairs, (all carefully laid with cutlery and flowers) but was told it was all for show! As I really wanted something to eat, I decided to leave but said to the young guy I might return.

I crossed back over the busy road and headed in the direction of the village called Oarda de Jos, as I'd spotted the word 'Pensiunea' painted in very large letters on a roof from the road side. On arrival at 'Pensiunea Perla Muresului' I was greeted by a man who spoke very little English, but I was welcomed in and was introduced to the man's son who did speak some English. The place was amazing, so wonderfully clean and modern, with no hint of any nicotine! I was informed a room would be 120 lei for the night, or 100 lei without breakfast. I did think it was a little expensive, especially as it was located on the outskirts of town, but as it was such a lovely place I knew I wanted to stay here. I asked if I could have any discount if I booked two nights, (my old bargaining trick!) and was told I could pay 160 lei, without breakfast or 200 lei with breakfast. I decided the latter, as somehow I knew the breakfast would be worth it!

After chilling a little in my delightful room, I headed back downstairs on the hunt for something to eat. I was soon presented with a wonderful three course meal consisting of soup with dumplings, my best ever sarmale and some very nice cakes. I was also given a large jug of Țuică! With a large bottle of mineral water, a beer and a coffee to finish, the whole bill came to 30 lei.

Great food

Before returning to my room for the night the owner gave me a tourist map of Alba lulia which I thought was kind of him. It's amazing what a difference 24 hours makes; the previous evening was spent in a train station waiting room, whereas now I am in the best room in Romania! I am really looking forward to some much needed sleep, followed by my breakfast in the morning!

Day 15 - Sighetu Marmației to Săpânța (by minibus) & a return hike & hitchhike back to Sighetu Marmației

I checked out of my hotel as I wasn't entirely sure what my plans were after visiting Săpânţa. I arrived at the JAN bus station a little before 9:30 am and could see a minibus already waiting with a sign for 'Arad' displayed on the window screen, and I confirmed with the driver it was going to Săpânţa. There weren't many passengers on board and I was relieved when we finally left at 9:50 am with the trip only taking 25 minutes (5 lei).

After jumping off the minibus I headed straight for the Merry Cemetery and paid the 4 lei entrance fee. As it was Sunday there was a service inside the church and it was nice to see all the women wearing the same traditional skirts as they entered. Walking around the cemetery looking at all the grave markers was truly fascinating, and I was grateful it was a nice sunny day with clear blue skies. Before heading to the museum I had a nice cup of coffee at the café opposite and was quite surprised at only been charged 2 lei in such a touristy place! (I was the only tourist around however!)

 Cimitirul Vesel (Merry Cemetery)

Cimitirul Vesel (Merry Cemetery)
Car accidents are depicted a lot at the cemetery

Cimitirul Vesel (Merry Cemetery)

Cimitirul Vesel (Merry Cemetery)

Cimitirul Vesel (Merry Cemetery)
This man was murdered and buried without his head!

Cimitirul Vesel (Merry Cemetery)

Cimitirul Vesel (Merry Cemetery)

Cimitirul Vesel (Merry Cemetery)

Cimitirul Vesel (Merry Cemetery)

Cimitirul Vesel (Merry Cemetery) - Stan Ioan Pătraş

Cimitirul Vesel (Merry Cemetery) - Stan Ioan Pătraş

On arrival at the museum I soon discovered the door was locked; however before too long a lady appeared who clearly wasn't impressed with being disturbed and opened up for me! I had a brief wander around before leaving.

Stan Ioan Pătraş Museum (Portraits of the Ceausescu's)

I then decided to make my way over to Peri Monastery, however whilst walking along the road I spotted an old lady who was filling up a lot of containers with water at the nearby outside tap. She beckoned me over and clearly wanted to cook for me and provide me with accommodation for the night! After she had filled all her containers I gave her a hand loading the wheelbarrow and walked the few hundred yards to her home.

Inside her home and in the kitchen I met her daughter. The old lady asked if I wanted some fried eggs. I wasn't really hungry but accepted anyway. Unfortunately I think both the eggs and oil were a little off, as they tasted awful! The old lady then presented me with a school exercise book which had some tourist addresses inside (including Japanese), and asked if I could write mine inside which I did! She was quite persistent in wanting me to stay the night, (and showing me all the addresses in her book as proof of previous lodgers!) I really just wanted to continue exploring Săpânţa and decide later what to do next. I finally offered the old lady and her daughter some of my fresh bread, fruit and chocolate (which they seemed very grateful) and made my excuses and left. (It did not seem right to give money for a couple of rotten fried eggs!)

Couple of fried eggs coming up!

When I finally reached Peri Monastery I was a little disappointed with the world's largest wooden tower. I wasn't entirely sure what to expect, but I just couldn't get excited! I did however think the surrounding woods would have been a great place to pitch my tent!

Peri Monastery (1995)

 Peri Monastery (1995)

By the time I reached the main road again it was about 2:30 pm and I decided I would just head back to Sighetu Marmației and start hitchhiking straight away, (hoping I wouldn't see the old lady!) Unfortunately I had a long hike (with backpack) all the way back to the village of Campulung, before I was picked up. I was very thankful however; as I knew it would soon be getting dark. The man who picked me up spoke no English but was more than happy to take me all the way to Sighetu Marmației train station. He seemed more than happy with the 10 lei I paid him and seemed to find it very amusing when I suggested he could purchase some more cigarettes with the money!

At the train station I pondered where to go next as I didn't really want to spend another night in Sighetu Marmației. In the end I booked a ticket to Cluj-Napoca, with the help of the delightful lady at the ticket counter, (and with her English speaking son on her mobile!) However, the train did not leave until 1:22 am! (Due to arrive at 7:38 am, 30.50 lei)

I now had seven hours to kill in Sighetu Marmației and my first thoughts were looking for somewhere to eat as I was starving after my long hike. I headed south from the train station and spotted a fast food place called 'Mad Dog' and was greeted by a lovely young lady. I first ordered a Shaorma Mica (9 lei) which was very nice, followed by a kebap! I stayed in the takeaway place for quite some time as it was nice and quiet and seemed void of any smokers!

I later wondered over to the patisserie 'Ileana' and had a coffee and a slice of cake. Unfortunately by 9 pm I had to leave as they closed. I decided to visit my old hotel (Coroana) and I was disappointed not to be greeted by the friendly young guy from before but instead by a miserable young lady! I asked her how much it would be to have a room for 3 hours (with a shower) and was told it would be full price. I soon left, somewhat deflated!

I decided to head back to the train station where I spotted a café opposite and so had another coffee, which unfortunately was served by another very grumpy young lady! I couldn't sit inside for very long because at the back of the café where a group of men playing on fruit machines all smoking which just filled the place with smoke. I finally went back inside the train station and tried to make myself comfortable in the waiting room, (which luckily wasn't too cold). I listened to some music and did some exercises to ease the boredom! During the night one of the train guards came to see me and took me inside his office so I could use his coffee machine (1 lei!), which I thought was kind of him. Needless to say, it was quite a long 4 hours spent in a waiting room!

 Waiting Room at midnight! - Sighetu Marmației Train Station