As my hotel didn't serve breakfast until 8 am there wasn't much point in getting up too early. When I did rise and popped my head out of the window I could see it had clearly snowed again quite heavily. Sadly my breakfast was abysmal and I left most of it. Before I left the hotel I paid 60 lei for another night's stay, (10 lei less for no breakfast!).
I first decided to head up to the bus station (near the train station) to see if I could catch a bus to Bârsana. The staff weren't particularly helpful but I could see the times displayed on a large notice board, and it was clear most of the buses left for the villages at between 6 and 7 am and again around noon. A little disillusioned I left and headed for the JAN bus station to the east of the town. (Not sure why I didn't visit here first!) I was greeted by a very helpful lady who informed me the next minibus to Bârsana was at 10:30 am. (I also enquired about a minibus to Mara for tomorrow and was informed there was one at 8 am)
The minibus left on time; however only a few minutes up the road we waited outside a supermarket, (for about half an hour) for more passengers to board! I finally arrived in Bârsana at 12 noon and made sure I jumped off the minibus at the far east of the village opposite the monastery. (The fare was 5 lei.)
I slowly walked through the village soaking up the amazing atmosphere and the wonderful ornate wooden entrances to the houses. I soon spotted the sign leading to the old church, where I had to open a gate before heading up the steps, (where I spotted an old lady collecting some logs). The church was very charming and the views overlooking the village were also wonderful.
As I headed back down the steps I noticed a collection of knitted bags hanging up by the gate, (which weren't there earlier!). As I started to take some photographs the old lady appeared who had clearly put them out on display for my benefit! I couldn't resist her nice friendly face and bought one for 50 lei, it didn't feel right to barter!
I carried on walking to Nănești along the main road which was actually quite busy to my surprise. I walked on the side of the road facing the oncoming traffic and felt the vehicles did not really give me a great deal of space as they passed by; I also felt they drove a little too fast! (I did spot quite a few grave markers along the road.) As I headed out of Nănești and onto Oncești it began to snow quite heavy, however I wasn't too concerned as I didn't think it was particularly cold and I was more than happy just to keep walking and soak up all the views. As I reached Vadu Izei I thought it was probably a good time to start hitchhiking, and within fifteen minutes I was picked up by a man who spoke no English but very kindly took me all the way back to the outskirts Sighetu Marmației, (large tower blocks) where I assumed he lived. I thanked him for his kindness and made the small walk back into the centre of town; by now it was still only 4 pm.
By now I was really hungry and made my way to Casa Veche (near the train station); however on arrival I was a little disappointed to be told they did not have a non-smoking section. I then decided to head over to Curte Veche, but again I was told they did not have a non-smoking section. I then visited the café called 'David's' and walked to the back where they had a non-smoking section only to discover plenty of customers puffing away! Somewhat becoming a little tired and grumpy I headed back out onto the streets and discovered a wonderful little takeaway place called 'Pampushka' (centre of town) and ordered a couple of Subereks, (one cheese and one meat) at 5 lei each and also 12 freshly made doughnuts! (7 lei) The place had only recently just opened and the lady behind the counter, (who spoke perfect English) understood my frustration at trying to find a non-smoking establishment in town! I headed back to my hotel to devour the lot and later popped out to the nearby supermarket for some much needed fruit!
Sighetu Marmației
Cemetery in Sighetu Marmației
I first decided to head up to the bus station (near the train station) to see if I could catch a bus to Bârsana. The staff weren't particularly helpful but I could see the times displayed on a large notice board, and it was clear most of the buses left for the villages at between 6 and 7 am and again around noon. A little disillusioned I left and headed for the JAN bus station to the east of the town. (Not sure why I didn't visit here first!) I was greeted by a very helpful lady who informed me the next minibus to Bârsana was at 10:30 am. (I also enquired about a minibus to Mara for tomorrow and was informed there was one at 8 am)
The minibus left on time; however only a few minutes up the road we waited outside a supermarket, (for about half an hour) for more passengers to board! I finally arrived in Bârsana at 12 noon and made sure I jumped off the minibus at the far east of the village opposite the monastery. (The fare was 5 lei.)
I slowly walked through the village soaking up the amazing atmosphere and the wonderful ornate wooden entrances to the houses. I soon spotted the sign leading to the old church, where I had to open a gate before heading up the steps, (where I spotted an old lady collecting some logs). The church was very charming and the views overlooking the village were also wonderful.
The village of Bârsana in the Iza Valley
The village of Bârsana in the Iza Valley
The village of Bârsana in the Iza Valley
The village of Bârsana in the Iza Valley
The wooden church (1711) in the village of Bârsana in the Iza Valley
The wooden church (1711) in the village of Bârsana in the Iza Valley
Views overlooking the village of Bârsana in the Iza Valley
As I headed back down the steps I noticed a collection of knitted bags hanging up by the gate, (which weren't there earlier!). As I started to take some photographs the old lady appeared who had clearly put them out on display for my benefit! I couldn't resist her nice friendly face and bought one for 50 lei, it didn't feel right to barter!
Traditional bags of Maramureş - The village of Bârsana
Traditional bags of Maramureş - The village of Bârsana (The one I bought!)
I carried on walking to Nănești along the main road which was actually quite busy to my surprise. I walked on the side of the road facing the oncoming traffic and felt the vehicles did not really give me a great deal of space as they passed by; I also felt they drove a little too fast! (I did spot quite a few grave markers along the road.) As I headed out of Nănești and onto Oncești it began to snow quite heavy, however I wasn't too concerned as I didn't think it was particularly cold and I was more than happy just to keep walking and soak up all the views. As I reached Vadu Izei I thought it was probably a good time to start hitchhiking, and within fifteen minutes I was picked up by a man who spoke no English but very kindly took me all the way back to the outskirts Sighetu Marmației, (large tower blocks) where I assumed he lived. I thanked him for his kindness and made the small walk back into the centre of town; by now it was still only 4 pm.
Hiking from Bârsana to Nănești in the Iza Valley
Hiking from Bârsana to Nănești in the Iza Valley
The village of Nănești in the Iza Valley
The village of Nănești in the Iza Valley
The village of Nănești in the Iza Valley
The village of Nănești in the Iza Valley
The village of Oncești in the Iza Valley
The village of Oncești in the Iza Valley
The village of Oncești in the Iza Valley
The village of Oncești in the Iza Valley
The village of Oncești in the Iza Valley
Looking back over the village of Oncești in the Iza Valley
By now I was really hungry and made my way to Casa Veche (near the train station); however on arrival I was a little disappointed to be told they did not have a non-smoking section. I then decided to head over to Curte Veche, but again I was told they did not have a non-smoking section. I then visited the café called 'David's' and walked to the back where they had a non-smoking section only to discover plenty of customers puffing away! Somewhat becoming a little tired and grumpy I headed back out onto the streets and discovered a wonderful little takeaway place called 'Pampushka' (centre of town) and ordered a couple of Subereks, (one cheese and one meat) at 5 lei each and also 12 freshly made doughnuts! (7 lei) The place had only recently just opened and the lady behind the counter, (who spoke perfect English) understood my frustration at trying to find a non-smoking establishment in town! I headed back to my hotel to devour the lot and later popped out to the nearby supermarket for some much needed fruit!
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