I had a great night's sleep with only the sound of the stream outside to disturb me. I was all packed and ready to leave at 8 am but when I went downstairs to the shop I noticed the sign on the door telling me it opened up at 9 am! Lucklily the lady owner arrived at 8:20 am and I was very pleased when all she wanted for the room was 30 lei. I thanked her for her kind hospitality and headed off in the direction of Remeţi.
A few cars passed me as I hiked to Remeţi and I am sure I could have grabbed a lift if I wanted to, but I was happy to walk and soak up the views, even though it was another very cold morning. I arrived in Remeţi at about 9:15 am and visited the local café for a much needed coffee to warm me up!
After warming up in the café I headed off to the nearby road junction and stood by the war memorial hoping to hitchhike to Lunca Visagului, as I really wanted to head back to Piatra Craiului via Devil’s Valley (as I'd arrived via the Valley of Hell!). However after only a short while it was quite apparent that all the traffic was heading via the Valley of Hell. Even though it was very pleasant waiting for a lift and having a chat with some of the locals, I decided to cross the road where I started walking out of Remeţi and along the Valley of Hell.
After only about ten minutes of walking I was picked up! There were two men in the car and the older man spoke quite good English. They were both engineers working in the area. They took me all the way to Piatra Craiului train station, where I arrived at about 11 am. I soon discovered the next train to Cluj-Napoca was at 12:20 am, (which would have been the same train I caught yesterday at 12 noon at Șuncuiuș!) I had plenty of time to visit the café opposite the train station, (to the right, along the busy road) and have a coffee.
The train was on time and when I boarded I paid the ticket guard 12.5 lei. This time the train did not seem to stop at that many stations and I arrived at Cluj-Napoca at 1:45 pm. On arrival I enquired about the next train for Baia Mare. I was in luck; the next train was due to depart at 2:05 pm! I paid the fare of 26.5 lei (2nd Class) and before heading to platform five, I grabbed some food and drink as I knew I would not arrive in Baia Mare until 5:40 pm.
On arrival (about 6 pm), I headed into town which was quite a lengthy walk, however when I arrived at Piata Libertatii I was delighted at seeing the wonderful Christmas decorations all lit up. I decided to seek out Pension Floare de Colti, which had a good write up in my guidebook. Unfortunately when I arrived I was informed they were fully booked, however the very helpful friendly young lady informed me of another Pension fifty metres further along called ‘La Palaguta’.
On arrival at Pension La Palaguta the lady at the reception seemed to have a few problems understanding me, but luckily an elderly gentleman came to my aid who spoke good English and informed me a room for the night would be 90 lei. As I knew I would be staying two nights I tried my usual bargaining trick and asked if there was any discount for two nights. The elderly gentleman then spoke with another lady seated in the dining area, and then asking me if I would be happy with 160 lei (including breakfast), I happily agreed to this. When I was shown my room I was suitably impressed, it was very stylish and probably the best room I had stayed in so far in Romania.
After settling in my room, I headed downstairs to the dining area hoping to grab something to eat as I really couldn't be bothered to walk into town. After being sat for a short while looking at the menu, the elderly gentleman came over and told me the menu was a little out of date and suggested I could have either chicken or pork! I settled for pork, and not long after I ordered I was presented with a large plate of pork slices, chips and salad. I also had a beer and a free glass of Țuică and I was charged a very reasonable 20 lei afterwards.
I later learned the elderly gentleman lived nearby and it was his sister who owned the Pension. His wife was away in Bucharest visiting their son, so he was being looked after every night and getting fed well at the Pension!
I later returned to my room and did wonder why the other Pension was full and the Pension I was staying at was virtually empty?
A few cars passed me as I hiked to Remeţi and I am sure I could have grabbed a lift if I wanted to, but I was happy to walk and soak up the views, even though it was another very cold morning. I arrived in Remeţi at about 9:15 am and visited the local café for a much needed coffee to warm me up!
Approaching Remeţi
Approaching Remeţi
After warming up in the café I headed off to the nearby road junction and stood by the war memorial hoping to hitchhike to Lunca Visagului, as I really wanted to head back to Piatra Craiului via Devil’s Valley (as I'd arrived via the Valley of Hell!). However after only a short while it was quite apparent that all the traffic was heading via the Valley of Hell. Even though it was very pleasant waiting for a lift and having a chat with some of the locals, I decided to cross the road where I started walking out of Remeţi and along the Valley of Hell.
Remeţi
Remeţi
After only about ten minutes of walking I was picked up! There were two men in the car and the older man spoke quite good English. They were both engineers working in the area. They took me all the way to Piatra Craiului train station, where I arrived at about 11 am. I soon discovered the next train to Cluj-Napoca was at 12:20 am, (which would have been the same train I caught yesterday at 12 noon at Șuncuiuș!) I had plenty of time to visit the café opposite the train station, (to the right, along the busy road) and have a coffee.
Piatra Craiului Train Station
Piatra Craiului Train Station
Piatra Craiului Train Station (Not my train!)
The train was on time and when I boarded I paid the ticket guard 12.5 lei. This time the train did not seem to stop at that many stations and I arrived at Cluj-Napoca at 1:45 pm. On arrival I enquired about the next train for Baia Mare. I was in luck; the next train was due to depart at 2:05 pm! I paid the fare of 26.5 lei (2nd Class) and before heading to platform five, I grabbed some food and drink as I knew I would not arrive in Baia Mare until 5:40 pm.
On arrival (about 6 pm), I headed into town which was quite a lengthy walk, however when I arrived at Piata Libertatii I was delighted at seeing the wonderful Christmas decorations all lit up. I decided to seek out Pension Floare de Colti, which had a good write up in my guidebook. Unfortunately when I arrived I was informed they were fully booked, however the very helpful friendly young lady informed me of another Pension fifty metres further along called ‘La Palaguta’.
On arrival at Pension La Palaguta the lady at the reception seemed to have a few problems understanding me, but luckily an elderly gentleman came to my aid who spoke good English and informed me a room for the night would be 90 lei. As I knew I would be staying two nights I tried my usual bargaining trick and asked if there was any discount for two nights. The elderly gentleman then spoke with another lady seated in the dining area, and then asking me if I would be happy with 160 lei (including breakfast), I happily agreed to this. When I was shown my room I was suitably impressed, it was very stylish and probably the best room I had stayed in so far in Romania.
After settling in my room, I headed downstairs to the dining area hoping to grab something to eat as I really couldn't be bothered to walk into town. After being sat for a short while looking at the menu, the elderly gentleman came over and told me the menu was a little out of date and suggested I could have either chicken or pork! I settled for pork, and not long after I ordered I was presented with a large plate of pork slices, chips and salad. I also had a beer and a free glass of Țuică and I was charged a very reasonable 20 lei afterwards.
I later learned the elderly gentleman lived nearby and it was his sister who owned the Pension. His wife was away in Bucharest visiting their son, so he was being looked after every night and getting fed well at the Pension!
I later returned to my room and did wonder why the other Pension was full and the Pension I was staying at was virtually empty?
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